In our family,
Thanksgiving = pineapple cheesecake. Most people have never heard of pineapple cheesecake, and more's the pity. This humble little dessert is nothing short of heaven and home and holidays, all rolled into one 9" pie pan of graham cracker encrusted, creamy sweet vanilla pineappley goodness.
**Mmmmmmmmm...kiss**
(That is me, the cook, smooching my fingers into the air at the dreamy thought of it. Dang, it's good!)
Every year for Thanksgiving I make Grandma Punkin's pineapple cheesecake legacy. The recipe is simple, but it commands absolute reverence. All familial mouths water in anticipation of it. Giddiness breaks out when it is born from the oven. A hush descends across the table when it is served. Treaties are signed over who gets how much and when.
Most people wish relatives and friends a Happy Turkey Day; my son's texted holiday greeting this year? Enjoy the pineapple cheesecake. Notice the lack of an exclamation mark, indicating not so much happiness for us, but a lament for his own pineapple cheesecakeless meal.
Once when my daughter was in college, she decided not to come home for Thanksgiving. The Wednesday before, she called begging for a ticket. She needed that pineapple cheesecake. Another time her brother came when she could not; we boxed up a hefty slice and Southwest Airlines carried Thanksgiving to her.
And this year, a new era has begun. My daughter Caitlin -- for the first time -- made Grandma Punkin's pineapple cheesecake for her own Thanksgiving celebration. She texted me to let me know her plans.
Did she have the recipe? I texted back. Yes, she says. I had given it to her a few years ago. Ah, I remembered. She didn't have a food processor then and the graham cracker crust is impossible without one. And don't even think about buying a pre-made one -- horrors! (Once I dared not to buy a prefab, but pre-crushed crumbs to use in the recipe. You'd have thought me an unwashed heretic. Mutiny was considered. I pleaded for my life, and fully believe I was spared because I was the only one in the house who knew the recipe and had the potential to make another one the right way.)
Remember to use only real vanilla, I texted. Yep, she replied, those three letters assuring me the family recipe was in capable hands.
But was it?? After the crust was made (Honeymaids, crushed to a whisper and added to a lake of melted butter, then pressed lovingly into a pan), she texted me again.
Made it myself! the text proclaimed.
(Look ma! No hands!)
As the minutes ticked by, as I knew that beautiful crust had been filled and committed to a 350 degree oven, I admit to being nervous. Could she do it? Would she capture that thick creaminess topped with a whipped burst of fresh juicy tangy sweetness? Would she ever so gently lay the topping on the baked custard bottom so that it didn't break through? Would she watch the custard like a hawk so that it firmed up but didn't dry out? Would she leave it in precisely 22 minutes? Drain the crushed pineapple so that it wasn't too soupy? Use good pineapple, not a generic brand that is never sweet enough? Well, would she??
She sent me picture mail when it was done. It was perfect. It was a fine, fine moment.
It was, in fact, a moment I realize I've been waiting for. Not for 22 minutes, but for, oh, almost 27 years, when I first became the mother of a daughter. That day when my daughter begins to pick up the the threads of tradition I've laid out for her, and make them her own. When she has taken all the years of watching, and produced it in her own way, for her own self. And she did put her own twist on it. Her pie is not round. But as you can see, it's perfection!
From Grandma Punkin, to whom we owe a big Thanksgiving thanks for all her great Texas cooking and recipe-sharing (next Thanksgiving I shall do an ode to cornbread dressing), and before her Grandma Bowen, from whence pineapple cheesecake came, to me -- a lucky and grateful daughter-in-law, and now to my daughter, and soon to my stepdaughter Carmen who also wants to learn to how to make it, and I would bet even to my son who will want to give it a go (or find a pretty girl who will) -- the family traditions carry on. And don't we all need them? When life flies by faster than car window scenery, and when what shows up in your life one day that is not at all what you expected to come to call, biting into that comforting delicious pineapple cheesecake year to year is a constant that reminds us, love and family are always here. Some things are right and always will be.
Some people may have ties that bind, but for us Dreamfarmers, it's the
pies that bind!
(The next generation pineapple cheesecake lover: my great-niece Eva Grace.)